Basic R/C Vehicle Maintenance

Basic R/C Vehicle Maintenance
Tips and Suggestions
by: Chris Oswald - R/C Modz Full Throttle; ORCCTM Tech.


Hello ORCCTM Blog followers. You may recognize the following write up on the recently "New Project" released GM Performance Parts Corvette. Based on a very popular Tamiya TT-01. This articles tips and suggestion can be made for any vehicle, but because of an up coming indoor season around the corner I thought I would show you a few things that I consider Basic Electric R/C Vehicle Maintenance.R/C Modz Full Throttle and my ORCCTM Blog will come together for this write up for the first time. Here are some basic steps to consider when starting to rebuild and maintain your Electric R/C vehicle.

What you will need: (other than your tools)
- Instruction booklet/diagrams* ~If available~ (in case you get stuck)
- Clean rags
- Old toothbrush
- Bearing lubricant
- Electric motor/ bearing cleaner
- Small clean dry plastic container
- Differential and gear grease/lube
- Shock oil (weight depends on preference; see owners manual for details)


First, you want to tear down the whole vehicle. This may seem like over kill to some, but with my experience this method covers all the basis and you'd be surprised what you find sometimes once you get into a tear down. You might find a bearing that is seized. Maybe you'll come across a worn out component like a tie rod end, or maybe some extra play in a wheel bearing/bushing. I don't expect you to do this every time your car gets dirty. I do however do this myself every spring and fall. With seasons changing the terrain you drive on does too. So why not prepare your vehicle properly for whatever you want to throw at it. Besides, most indoor carpet tracks want you to have a clean sedan to drive. They would prefer you not to bring in something that had bad road rash and dust and gravel from last year all over it.



A quik look at these differential's and you can see that it's a bit dirty. It was cleaner when the differential's first went together. I had cleaned the outer ring gear and pinion, like some would stop at this point. By why not rebuild the differential's?? Your already there. Plus, you know then it's going to run nice and smooth after all that work.




After cleaning out the differential's and the cases, I wanted to inspect them for any sign of damage or unusual wear and tear inside the differential cup. You also may want to take a good look at the internal differential gears. Make sure they are looking alright and able to be reused and not scared or have pits or chucks in the face of the gears. This has happen and is often caused by anything fine and course that you pick up on the road outside.



Once your satisfied with the cleaning and inspection of all internal components it's time for reassembly and some lubrication. NOTE: While I am showing a very simple drive train on a 4WD shaft driven touring car, this maintenance is also good for any gear drive train of most electric vehicles.




Now the main chassis and drive train components are clean and ready for re-assembly. I need to point out that not everyone cleans the bearings you find along the way during a rebuild. While is the hobby store seine I had met a few people that never did such a thing and just did cleaning "around" the vehicle. They said "blow it off with an air compressor and call it a day." This is good for carpet racing and light outside driving on clean surfaces. But lets face it. 90% of the vehicles I had seen first hand were not of clean surfaces. I too run in some dusty conditions sometimes, which is why these maintenance tips and ideas are good to have. After you clean the bearings with the approved bearing cleaner available at any hobby store. YOU MUST remember to re-lubricate the bearings. You don't want to have a dry bearing. Seen here, soaking the bearings in bearing lube will help to further the performance of these wonderful little upgrade that didn't come stock on this TT-01 kit, but every vehicle should have them. If you don't want to soak and like getting your hands dirty, by all means go ahead and do each bearing by hand. If you want..... :) :)



TIP: use a magnetic tool to extract the bearings from the container leaving more lubricant in the container and not all over yourself or your work table.



Don't forget the shocks and electric motor. These are also some over looked items as well. Make sure the shocks aren't leaking fluid or damaged in anyway. The caps are tight, they shafts are straight and not bent. If they are damaged, you might need to invest a little cash in a rebuild kit. If they check alright then at the very least check the level of the shock oil inside the shocks. If they are low or the fluid is dirty it's time to change it. Rebuild kit's very in cost depending on the manufacturer. However shock oil can usually be picked up at your LHS for under $10.00
You can also pick up electric motor cleaner. This is important because unless your running a brushless motor that requires less maintenance other than lubricating the bearings. The standard brush motor stock or not needs to be cleaned and serviced as well. If you would like more detail on motor cleaning and shock rebuilding stay tuned to the ORCCTM blog for future detailed articles. In the mean time a nice quick spray of the motor cleaner inside either end of the motor will do wonders. NOTE: don't forget to add a little bit of bearing/bushing lube to either end of the motor where the shaft rides on the bushing/bearing.



Your bearings, chassis/suspension components and other drive train components are ready for re-assembly. With everything clean and what needs to be lubricated lubed up, your next rebuild will go smoothly and the vehicle will run like new.


As the R/C vehicles get more advance and more innovative one thing will never change, Basic R/C Vehicle Maintenance. It's necessary for all R/C vehicles to last and perform for a long time. It's becoming even more necessary lately with the higher demand of speed and durability that we come to expect from the latest R/C vehicles out there. While this is a personal preference Basic R/C Vehicle Maintenance guide, it does work for myself and the others that I have helped in the past. I see no need to make it too complicated for some so they never touch or repair their own r/c. I like how hobby stores offer "R/C Vehicle Repair" and some do "Cleanings" But from a personal stand point the main reason for getting into the hobby is to experience the entire responsibility of owning a higher grade R/C vehicle. I like tinkering and modify things to make them better, faster and more exciting in some cases. I know there is others like me out there. While we go full speed into the "Ready-To-Run" phenomenon that the industry has created. I often met some people at the hobby store that when they bought an RTR vehicle they didn't put the truck together. Now some manufactures have great instructions, others don't. How will this individual know how to repair the car/truck they just bought and then broke? You could pay the hobby store to fix it... that's an option, But I say get in there, take it apart and do the basic maintenance yourself. The only way your going to know if something went wrong and what to do about it is if you try it yourself.

-Christopher Oswald
[R/C Modz Full Throttle]
[ORCCTM Tech.]

Getting through it

Hey look, I know sometimes getting that little tiny antenna wire through that tiny hole in the antenna tube can be a real pain. Some antenna tubes come in different colors and believe it or not, diffident sizes. Yes, I know they come in different lengths. But did you ever stop to REALLY look at one from the other? The inside diameter is sometimes diffident making it hard to get that little wire in some tubes. Here is a helpful hint to help you get through this without getting too frustrated.

Frame 1) Illustrated different colors and perhaps wire types.

Frame 2) No sense in trying to get this wire through the way it is.

Frame 3) Gently work the wire through your fingers while pulling on the wire and give it a "little" stretch back into shape. Don't pull too hard, just enough to feel the wire getting less kinked.

Frame 4)Once you have the wire straight, feed through the antenna tube.

Frame 5) This one is the winner folks, if you still have a problem here, wait... don't give up. Use a small amount of bearing lube or WD-40 and get some down the end of the tube.

Frame 6) With a little lubrication the wire will feed in a lot easier and you'll be glad you did, especially when you start getting to the other end of the antenna tube. Without some kind of lubrication on the wire in some tubes, you may find the wire "kink" and then get stuck. Once this happens, your going to have to start again. Forcing the wire further could break the insulation and cause further damage to that receiver wire.

Connector Meltdown

"Hello ORCCTM, my name is Damion and I have been doing the rc thing for a couple of years. I don't have a lot of experience, but when I had a problem with a couple of my cars, I was told about you guys from your facebook group page. I a wondering if you can shed some light on my problem. I have a Tamiya Night Hauler and a Traxxas Rustler along side a older Kyosho USA-1. I have 3, 3300mah battery packs. I rotated the packs for even draw and charging, BUT on my usa-1 I have had the positive lead of the connectors get really hot and fuse together. I use players to break them apart, the battery connector is trashed but the truck side connector seems ok. I have had this happen to 2 out of 3 packs on my usa-1. I am running stock motors and a Novak Rooster ESC. My LHS said the esc is fine, and that they don't know what this is happening. They said it happens to guys with the old rotatory type, but not electric controlled systems. They think I'm over charging the batteries, what can I do???
Damion, ND."


Damion, first...... if you do anything, stop what your doing and read this. Melting connectors is a cause of high heat, as a result from high resistance in the connector. Tamiya type connectors are known for this. They work well for a while, but after time they wear out. The round metal tabs inside the connector get weak and start to spread apart. This space (however small to the naked eye) is enough to cause high resistance and then a lot of heat. I too had a USA-1 that did this, keep in mind... the USA-1 is a duel motor truck. The rustler and tamiya semi and single motor. The duel motor setup is in parallel meaning with both motors running off each other they a drawing twice as much current. I could tell you to try and repair the connector on the USA-1, but if I was you and had to go to all that work, I would invest on some higher quality connectors. Upgrading to a connector such as "Deans", "Power Pole" and even "Traxxas" type connectors. This will help in a few ways. 1) Less resistance means less heat, and less heat means no more meltdown. 2) Better current flow equals to more and longer power. You need a much power as you can get these days, duel motor trucks need a decent amount of power to perform the way we want them too. Changing over all your cars to these types of connectors will help you in the long run too, as the batteries get higher in MAH levels, and if you want to upgrade the motors later on, you at least have the connectors to do so. Why the LHS didn't suggest this I don't know. But either way we are glad to help. I myself have changed over to "Power Pole" type connectors and never looked back. As far as over charging, if you are using a auto-dectect peak charger.... im sure how you would do this without hitting the "charge" button more once on each full change. Besides, even if you did, that wouldn't cause your melt down. Take a good look at the connector on the USA-1 and compare it to the other two trucks. I think you'll see a difference. In any case, like I said... this upgrade is worth it no matter which way you go.
Hope this helps you out.

ORCCTM Tech.

Get a Grip!

Note from the editors at Online Radio Control Car & Truck Mechanic:

We recognized that everyone has a different collection of tools in one another R/C pit box. We know you guys range from novice and experienced. As you build on into the hobby, the kit’s get more advanced. Some early stage kit’s have all Phillips type screws and they work pretty good. Some others have the hex, or Allen head type screws. Well this one is for you newbie’s out there. After you have been in the hobby for a while you can afford to get a good set of Allen head wrenches. Like these ones:



But, for you newbie’s that just went and raided your dad’s tool box and grabbed the multi Allen head wrench set, or you got these little bugger’s in a kit you bought. Either way, this tip is for you.



Take some nitro fuel silicone line and slip it for the “L” end of the wrench. Make it a piece about 1.5” long, or according to the size of wrench cut the appropriate amount of fuel tubing. Fuel tubing itself can come in different colors and thickness. You can even use automotive washer fluid hose tubing as well.
“Wrapping” the opposite business end of the Allen key will help give you a little extra grip, and more tightening and loosening power.

The more expensive tool sets are great, and work better. But, when you are just starting out or all you have is..... what you have, we know what it's like to sometimes make best of what you got.

ORCCTM Tech.

Hey Slippy, how's it going???

Ben wrote to Online Radio Control Car & Truck Mechanic:

"I am emailing you regarding a rc I have. I have the Traxxas rustler kit # 3706 ( I think) Anyway, I have an issue with what my buddy says is my slipper gear. Every time I take off on a fully charged battery, the slipper always makes a wine noise and then slowly drives up to speed. I have gone through my manual, and it says something about making the spring on the spur gear tighter. I have tried that, but it still slips. I have gone to my local hobby store and they sold me little red insert pegs. I replaced them and it helped a little but still slips. I even bought a new gear. What else can I do or did I maybe miss something? Please help me.
Ben, Wisconsin"


Thanks for the email Ben. I will start by saying that I don’t like the old slipper style clutch on the older Rustler kits. I too struggled sometimes and upgraded to the new style spur gear design. But, since you already bought new slipper pegs and new gear. We will start there. When you re build the spur gear slipper assembly, you may have taken out a certain number of little red pegs, and replaced them with the same number of little red slipper pegs. Ok Ben, you didn’t miss anything but here is what I would suggest. When I rebuilt my rustler slipper I added extra slipper pegs for added traction on the slipper rings. Also, by now I would imagine that those rings look pretty worn. You could buy new ones, but try this first. Lay some fine grit sand paper down on a smooth surface, sand grit up. Put the ring down, and lightly take the ring and move it in a circular pattern on the sand paper this will scuff the surface of the rings and get rid of that glaze on the rings.
Once you have some refinished slipper rings and those extra slipper pegs installed, put the slipper gear assembly together and adjust accordingly. You will notice that the “old” locknut setting will be over kill and you may need to back off the adjuster nut. This will hopefully try to make do with what you have already. I know it worked for me and many other Traxxas rustler, stampede and bandit models. Give it a shot, you won’t be disappointed. This does classify and basic drive train maintenance anyway, so it will do your truck some good.

ORCCTM Team

Liquid Mask Nightmare

Chad wrote to Online Radio Control Car & Truck Mechanic:

“My name is Chad, and I have a question. I have done some body painting in the past and have enjoyed the pre-cut windows masks and the new pre cut designs you can get. But even with all those choices, I still like to make my own. My problem is when I use liquid mask. I use it, it works pretty well. The main problem is when the mask is a little thin in some areas and won’t peel off. I try my best and it doesn’t always come clean. When I paint, you can still see little chucks or pieces of mask between the layers. I try to go on thicker, but I always find a area too thin. Ay idea on how to get rid of ALL the masking??
Thanks ORCCTM.”

Chad, UT

Hmmmm well Chad, I have in fact ran into your problem personally myself. It is hard to go on thicker on some areas of a lexan body. Face it, the contours of some body’s now…. I feel your pain. What I do is this, wait until the mask and your paint job is fully dry. While you can peel off liquid mask fairly easily it is hard (like you said) to sometimes get those little pieces from layer to layer. Apply a few overlapping layers of masking tap over the area you want to remove the mask from. Pull, and you will start grabbing all those little tiny chucks/pieces of liquid mask from the smallest of paint edges. Give it try, you may have to apply it a couple of times… but one thing is for sure, the paint isn’t going anywhere. They only thing not permanently bonded to the lexan is the liquid mask. This trick works wonders on Tamiya and Pactra type aerosol spray cans. The Parma Faskote water based paints you just to be extra careful. Put the paint on nice and thin and even coats. Let everything dry and perform the tape removal trick.

Glad to be able to assist you, I hope this helps you out.

ORCCTM Tech.

Keep it together - Magnetic Tray

Online Radio Control Car & Truck Mechanic I was on your guy's Blog the other day and wanted to submit an idea that i've been using for a while. I had seen it on a site a while back, thought I would try it out. It works so good I wanted to share it with you and your readers. When I do any rebuild of my R/C, i use a metal magnetic tray from an auto parts store. It holds all the metal hardware from your rig in one spot. Just thought you would like to know.
-Dan (North Dakota, USA)

Thanks Dan, yes this tip is something we also took advantage of a while back. I believe R/C Car Action Magazine had this one in an older issue. We use a couple of these automotive magnetic parts trays around our work area. They do work great. Thanks for the tip Dan, we will be sure to post it to let the rest of the world know. We also would like to add, that if you want to help magnetize your screw driver's tips, leave the tools with the tool end down in the tray for a week or so, or whenever you don't have anything n the tray and not working on anything. This will help make holding your screws at the end of the driver a lot easier for those hard to reach areas from time to time. Thanks again Dan.

If you want to get your own parts tray, any automotive parts store will carry them.


They range from $7.99 to about $19.99 and if you are in Canada, Canadian Tire has a good selction. Canadain Tire

Get the "Whole" Idea.

Kerry wrote to Online Radio Control Car & Truck Mechanic:

"I wanted to email you guys/girls (sorry but i don't know) about a problem I have been having. I have a T-Maxx, and I know you guys deal with electric car mostly, but i'm hoping you can still help me with my nightmare. I have glued my new set if tires and wheels. I took it out to the sand pits and had a blast ripping around in the gravel and even the odd puddle. But.... I now have water in my tires and I'm sure some rocks. HOW do you suggest I get them out. My buddies say I'm SOL and need to de-glue my wheels and tires. I read about glue remover and acetone.... but that will wreck my nice chrome wheels. ANY help would be great, thank in advance!
-Kerry, Il."

Kerry, don't sweat it. we may have a solution for you. Let's start by stating a few things. First, as you may already notice that with rims and tire glued it's hard to get them unglued without some work. Plus, if you run into the same problem again, same thing. This is un-needed wear and tear on your fingers and you will wreck your tires after having them dismounted and re-glued too often. R/C car tires don't hold air like real cars do. Air should be able to pass freely in and out of your tires, and even though most rim manufacturers drill holes in the rims to allow airflow, there is a better method. You may be asking what this has to do with me right? Well these holes will help draw the water into the wheel as well. So, let's attack this from the other side. Use a pair of side cutters, or even a high-speed motor tool to bore two SMALL holes (on opposite sides of your tire) directly into the face of the tread pattern. Just try to do this in between spikes or tread so that you don't compromise any valuable traction-providing bits of rubber. Ok Kerry, and others. WHY????
By having holes in the actual rubber of the tire instead of (or as well as) just in the rim you allow whats called (fancy word here) "centrifugal force" No, you might not of hard of this in school, but guys talk about it at the track. Your buddies may not know, so here is how you can show them up a little. (just kidding)
"Centrifugal force" is meant to help remove dirt and moisture that may have gotten trapped within your wheels once they start spinning. Holes in the rubber also make it much easier to drain out any water that may get trapped when you are cleaning your tires after playing in the mud.
If you have an old sent of tires, try it out, you'll like the results.

Dusty Dirty Touring Car - Cleaning/Tire tip

Jake Wrote to Online Radio Control Car & Truck Mechanic:

" You guys may or may not know this, but I have a TC5 touring car, and when i'm done running around outside with guys in the parking, My car is covered in dust and road crap. My friend told me to use a automotive brake cleaner to rinse off my chassis. I noticed he did this with his older TC3, seems to work. My co-worker said that would be bad for the plastic, who is right? Also when I bring in my car into the house rocks and stuff fall from the car, and when I take off the wheel I can hear little rocks running around inside the tire, and since they are glued, I can't get them out. What I can I do about these problems????? Any advise would be great. Thanks."

Hey Jake, nice to hear you are enjoying pounding the pavement. And yes, it can get a little dusty and dirty out there depending on where you on road driving. Some places are better than others. First off DO NOT use automotive brake clean to clean ANYTHING R/C, well at least the car itself. Automotive brake clean is VERY strong and can eat plastics making them weaker and eat the coatings inside electric motors causing them to short out after long term use. You can use hobby specific electric motor cleaner for the electric portion of your collection. We use a air compressor to blow off all our cars, on road or off road. and if that doesn't work for you then a mild damp cloth and tooth brush works too. But more time consuming. The rocks in the tires, well Jake..... the set you have now, you may have to live with unless you can get the tires off. Being glued down does make this a little difficult. So here is what we suggest for your NEXT set of tires. You may notice some "breather" holes on the inside of the rims of most R/C wheels. On road is common to get crap in the tires, and even our off road trucks get junk in the wheels, most common is water. Which is not so bad to get rid of. You can use these breather holes on the inside of your touring car wheels to your advantage. Using a small amount of very fine screen sometimes a window screen is enough, or even finer. CA glue a tiny section of screen around the hole. This will allow the tire breath without getting anything obstructing stuck inside. Keeping stuff from inside the tires will keep them lighter, and balanced. Off balance tires can not always be seen, but if you only knew what the car was going through. It's the same reason why we balance our full size car tires. Better driving and handling. Not to mention smoother operation of everything involving your drive train on your R/C car.
Hope this helps.